Leather Care & Storage

We start with the finest and the most luxurious Italian lambskin available. Each hide is carefully selected for its feel and consistency. 

 

Our designs are destined and will become the next American icon for motorcycle apparel, expressing in its workmanship and impeccable quality a strength that is inevitably Trisha DeHall’s.

 

We have selected unique hardware to enhance the beauty and elegance of each garment.  The buckles and conchos are carefully chosen for their design features that will complement the colors and style of each piece in the collection. They are constructed of superior materials and each one is hand set into every garment. No detail has been overlooked, right down to the thread we use.  We intent to deliver a product we can be proud to say, “Made in America”.

 

Leather: It's arguably the best, most durable material around. That's why it's generally so expensive. Simple care and maintenance tasks will help protect your investment -- and keep it looking its best for decades.

Most leather is finished leather, which means it's been given a protective coating. Many of the ingredients found in commercial leather cleaners are common items you may have lying around the house, so it's really not necessary to buy store-bought cleaners.

 

However, if you would like to buy a store-bought cleaner we suggest “Leather Therapy” by https://absorbine.com/products/leather-care/.

 

Here are some simple, natural ways to keep your leather furniture looking as good as new for years to come.

Tip: Before you begin: Always check an inconspicuous area first.

Stain Removal: (*Note that these tips apply to ordinary finished leather; they do not apply to suede. Read a little further down for tips on cleaning suede.)

Ink: Ink is one of the most difficult stains to remove. A ballpoint-pen mark is much easier to eradicate than a huge saturated blob (which may never come out). For superficial scribbles, try one of two home remedies: Either dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and rub until the marks disappear (this may take several tries), and then dry with a hair dryer on its lowest setting. Otherwise try rubbing out the stain with a non-acetone nail polish-remover pad. For more serious staining -- or if you're worried about ruining the leather -- consult a pro.

Mildew & mold: Mix one part rubbing alcohol with one-part water and spray onto a dampened cloth. Wipe surface with a lint-free cloth and use clean portions of fabric as you go along.

Newsprint: Spritz the marks with aerosol hairspray. Wipe clean with a soft cloth.

Protein-based stains (blood, food, mud): Typically dark, these stains are especially noticeable on light-colored pieces. Make a paste of one part lemon juice and one part cream of tartar; apply and let sit for about 10 minutes. Then, put another layer of paste on top, and remove it with a wet, wrung-out rag dampened with Castile soap. Buff dry with a soft cloth.

Water: If your leather is marred by water stains and rings, try applying mayonnaise. Let sit for a few hours, and then wipe it off with a dry rag. Or get the "Leather Therapy" from the link above.

Removing Stains from Suede

Suede should be treated differently than typical leather, as it can ruined much more easily. Avoid using chemical stain removers on suede. Since most suede has been chemically pretreated, spot-cleaning is really your only option. Remove dried-on stains with a clean pencil eraser; rub it over the spot until the offending substance is gone. Restore the nap by rubbing it gently with an emery board. Blot up wet messes with a paper towel. For oil-based stains, use a commercial suede cleaner that's designed specifically to degrease.

Cleaning & Conditioning Leather:

Finished leather: A gentle plant-based detergent like Dr. Bronner's liquid castile soap can effectively clean and condition leather garments ( and upholstery) in one shot. Swirl two drops soap in one-quart warm water. Work it into the leather in sections using a well-wrung sponge; don't soak the leather. To restore shine, buff leather surfaces with a soft cloth.

Suede: As discussed, suede is delicate, so cleaning and maintenance should be gentle. Prevention is key: protect suede from stains and water damage by applying upholstery protector every six months or so. Dust suede regularly with a dry, microfiber to ward off discoloration, and use a suede brush to keep the nap looking fresh.

Patent leather: Although you won't find many pieces in our line made of this, we may use it as a design feature and at times it may need a little freshening up. Douse a lint-free cloth with distilled white vinegar and wipe down. Likewise, a thin application of petroleum jelly (just buff it out before sitting) brings back shine -- and repels water, too

Storage

One of the many benefits of leather is that it doesn’t easily wrinkle if stored properly. Leather is a great choice for extended wear or travel. Suggestions to keep your garment wrinkle free:
• Store garment on a broad hanger, not wire, to maintain its shape.
• Some garments have a chain loop at the collar. Do not use this as a hanger. The weight of the garment and contents in the pockets may be too heavy and result in a tear.
• Never store in plastic because leather is a skin which needs to breathe.
• Store leather in a cool, dry place. Leather can mildew if stored in a hot, humid environment.
• Do not store leather near a direct source of light If wrinkles occur due to improper storage, simply hang garment and brush nap (if suede or nubuck). Most wrinkles should hang out.
Wrinkles occurring naturally in the skin are the defining characteristics that distinguish leather from man-made materials and cannot be removed. If ironing is necessary use high setting and place a brown paper bag over the garment for protection than iron quickly.